tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-31373908021436268362024-03-13T20:15:16.816-07:00House of FrillymingoeMy adventures into sewing, dressmaking and pattern cuttingMelissahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00514543669729453075noreply@blogger.comBlogger16125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3137390802143626836.post-61458081315494398012017-08-20T14:11:00.000-07:002017-08-20T14:43:11.581-07:00Rainbow Taffy BlouseI am so late for this party, the Colette Taffy Blouse but as they say: better late than never!<br />
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I have had this pattern <i>forever. </i>It was offered as a freebie download in a sewing magazine and never one to pass up a freebie, I grabbed it and a quick look around blogosphere reveals it could be as early as 2011; I think it was given as an enticement when the Colette Sewing Handbook was released.<br />
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Anyway, it has sat there quietly gathering dust, along with a chiffon remnant I have had in my stash for not quite so many years. I may have mentioned before that I love a good rummage through the remnant bin of my local fabric shop. I never pay more that £5 and manage to come away with enough fabric for dress and this was no exception. This chiffon is the female equivalent of Joseph's technicolour dreamcoat. It has every colour under the sun and most are in my autumn colour palette (so unheard of) and will go with just about everything. Trying to get through my stash of fabric I paired it with the Taffy pattern.<br />
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I decided to wing it and not make a toile for this.......there is method in my madness. Colette is known for making their patterns to fit a C cup (unlike the Big Four, who only do a B), it is a bias cut pattern (so will stretch) and it has big floaty sleeves. The downsides mainly mentioned are the sleeves are HUGE and the neckline quite wide. Being a C/D cup and thinking I am fairly broad shouldered, I decided it was worth a shot without the toile.<br />
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It is a very easy pattern - only 3 pieces: bodice front and back and sleeves. There are ties but I didn't have any instructions so didn't make them (and was wondering what the marks on the side backs were, sigh!). I couldn't pattern match but I did try to go for colour matching at the sleeve head and figured it wouldn't matter too much if I didn't get it spot. I didn't and it doesn't!<br />
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The edges of the sleeve and neckline are edged in binding and I didn't have a light-weight fabric so decided to make chiffon bias-binding...........<i>sharp intake of breath! </i>I managed it and do not intend repeating that particular task EVER! I decided to use the binding as a type of facing for the sleeves but did a bound neckline as I didn't want to take anymore off the edge, just in case it did prove to be on the large side. Oh and a word of warning, those sleeves are massive, they are almost full circle.<br />
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And here it is. <br />
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Have to say that the comments re the wide neckline are right, it is a bit wide, even on me (of course it could mean I'm not as broad-shouldered as I thought), but I can live with it. That said, I love it and I have to say, I think it may become a favourite staple. It is a dress-up-dress-down item. It will go with loads of things, pencil skirt, jeans, smart trousers and I have a few cardigans that will go with it. And I <i>really</i> love the sleeves. They are big and floaty and hang beautifully (and hide a multitude of sins, if you catch my drift) and the fit of the top is great. The ties aren't really necessary, not for me anyway but I may make a belt just to jazz it up a bit. Definitely worth a go and is spectacular in the right fabric!Melissahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00514543669729453075noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3137390802143626836.post-48698518797248350522017-08-14T00:52:00.000-07:002017-08-14T00:52:32.894-07:00Honig Design Garden Party Dress (aka Sit-on-my-bum-and-do-nothing-dress)Well I've finished it, at last. <a href="http://www.honigdesign.com/2013/03/garden-party-dress-pattern-free.html#.WZFWCFF97IU" target="_blank">My Garden Party Dress</a>. I came across this dress a few years ago whilst on my blogosphere travels and loved it. It's simple and modern but with a vintage vibe. It's a free pattern so I decided to give a whirl and have to say that I was impressed. It is beautifully presented, clear instructions and pattern. There are 2 options each for sleeves, neckline and skirt, which ain't bad for a freebie! About 2 years ago, I was in my local crafty gift shop and spied a length of Art Gallery fabric. It was enough for a dress and so found it's way into my sweaty little paws. I later decided to marry it with the Garden Party Dress.<br />
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I had to make quite a few changes to the pattern. The bodice is fairly fitted and because I suffer from back neck gaposis on dresses, I decided to do a size 12 with an FBA, and to be fair, having to do an FBA is a standard alteration for me these days. However, Miss Honig Design must be a tiny petite thing as the bodice was waaaaaaaay too short; I'm not even talking crop top here , more bolero length on me! But, changes made and it went together pretty well..........at toile stage.<br />
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You know sometimes there are clothes that just refuse to play nicely, well this was one of them. I pinned the pattern to the fabric, was just about to cut it all out, when I remembered that I had to pattern match it, so off it all came. Next day, I laid out the skirt (which I hadn't done the day before) and found the front skirt was too wide for the fabric, so a bit of jiggery-pokery on a quick pattern alteration and the skirt was cut out, with the panels on the front skirt nicely matching. I then managed to arrange the bodice have it match beautifully across the back bodice, only to realise I had forgotten to match the back skirt, doh! It was this point, the dress got its alternative name. A friend spied it on the back of the chair midway through making, and (ever the truthful person I am), explained the mishap. "So what are you going to do?" she asked. "Sit on my bum and do nothing when I'm wearing it!" said I! And actually, truth be told (see, I told you, ever truthful), it would have been impossible to match the back skirt as I didn't have enough fabric (that's the trouble with a pre-cut length!) though I did try!<br />
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Anyway, it all went together beautifully, I managed the concealed zip without a concealed zipper foot although the zip did come out once! The difficulty came attaching the skirt to the bodice. The skirt was a size 16 and the bodice a 12 so the skirt pattern markings didn't match the bodice. I eyeballed it, sewed it all together and found I had the pleats going the wrong way on one side. So out it came and then it didn't line up with the waist dart, so out it came again. Third time lucky, hurrah!<br />
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Here's the dress in all its glory. I don't love it but I will wear it. I love the dress style, it is very easy to wear and is a lovely swishy skirt (even in cotton and lined with cotton), not too much for daywear.........just maybe not in this fabric. I don't normally wear pattern (actually, I don't normally wear dresses but I'm trying to change that!) so it is quite a departure in style for me. There are a few niggles: it is a bit baggy under the bust in the ribcage area. I tried to fix it but the waist darts were going right up to the bust point and I'm not a fan of the pointy boob look! I have since found a potential fix but will leave it on this dress for now. Also the armholes are a bit tight and need adjusting; I think this is the difference in toile fabric (an old duvet cover and then curtain lining, both of which are softer than the fabric I used for the dress) compared to the dress fabric. But I love the style. Think I'm going to try tweaking it and make a couple of wintry dresses, using the long sleeve option. But I really do suggest you try it. It's a lovely pattern and with so many style options.......a girl can never have too many dresses, right?<br />
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And again excuse the semi-ferocious face......I really must learn to make more time for photo-taking rather than throwing my camera at Little Miss as we are rushing out the door!Melissahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00514543669729453075noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3137390802143626836.post-40973820368255175092017-04-16T04:33:00.001-07:002017-04-19T00:42:07.090-07:00Swedish Tracing Paper<div style="text-align: justify;">
Good morning my lovelies and Happy Easter. It's a long weekend and so I thought I'd do some sewing (and yes it is a distraction technique to avoid the chocolate that is really shouting my name!). I have a list and a plan (more of that on another day) to tackle, I mean use, my stash and thought I'd make a start; actually I'm picking up a dress I toiled probably a year ago and bought the fabric probably a year before that! Hey ho, what can I say other than "Life!"</div>
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Anyway, I digress. Today, I thought I'd talk to you about Swedish Tracing Paper. I was browsing through my instagram one day and "creative_ind_ "appeared on my feed with swedish tracing paper. I don't know about you but I trace off all my patterns and keep the originals in tact. My weight has fluctuated over the years and I don't want to be stuck with one size of pattern I love and want to use again. Also, I use Burda Magazine patterns, when I can face tracing off their trainwreck of a pattern! I nearly always toile a pattern but I tend to skip pin fitting on the paper pattern as I find it just does not really work (but don't ANY of you tell my old tutor!), It's not an ideal process as it invariably means more than one toile and I am running out of toile fabric (note to self to find some cheap alternative fabric!). Enter Swedish Tracing Paper!</div>
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For those of you that don't know, swedish tracing paper is used as pattern paper. It looks rather like a lightweight interfacing but it is far crisper, but not paper crisp. It is see-through, making tracing a cinch; you can pin it and even sew it and because it is kind of fabric like, you can easily pin fit as it contours properly to your body. It doesn't tear easily (although I managed to rip it having discarded in disgust an ill-fitting toile with a zip which I later yanked it out of pile with said zip caught on something else!) so it is fairly robust and will put up with a toile fitting or two. And you can use it as your pattern piece when you do (finally, in my case!) get round to making up your item of clothing. The only downside and this really is so minor, I feel churlish mentioning it, is that felt-tip type pens (I use fineliners for my pattern marking and toile adjustments) will bleed if you keep the tip on it for more than a millisecond, which is fine if you are marking dots and notches, but not great if you hesitate on tracing out lines, but like I say, it is such a minor thing, it feels wrong to mention it. </div>
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<i>A sneaky peak at my current project on the swedish tracing paper, and this is the reverse side</i></div>
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So in summary, so far I'm liking the swedish tracing paper. Head over to <a href="http://www.creative-industry.co.uk/product/swedish-tracing-paper-roll-1m-x-10m/" target="_blank">Creative Industry</a> if you fancy trying this out. Clare also sells a great journal if you want to keep a track of what you are sewing.</div>
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Whatever you are doing today, enjoy and if you do use the swedish tracing paper, let me know; I do like to compare notes!</div>
Melissahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00514543669729453075noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3137390802143626836.post-69579305453837046662017-04-08T08:05:00.000-07:002017-04-08T08:05:12.417-07:00Vintage style Simplicity 8050Well, I don't know if you know, but I do a little acting. Yes, I'm a luvvie but I don't really tell many people.......well until now! I belong to a small local am-dram group. I kind of fell into it. I thought I was going to help with costumes one day but ended up standing in on a read through and was offered the part. The rest, as they say, is history.<br />
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The last play we did was "The Actress" by Peter Quilter. It's about the last show night of a retiring colourful complicated actress and I got the part of her dresser. The play was set in the 1940s (love the 1940s). My character was unglamorous, no-nonsense and working. I figured I needed a uniform, a no-nonsense dress. A visit to our local fabric shop with Miss Frillymingoe found <a href="https://jaycotts.co.uk/products/s8050-misses-vintage-1940s-dress-pattern-1#.WOjP1_krLIU" target="_blank">Simplicity 8050</a>. I bought a bottle green polyester fabric for it. Yes, yes, I know that polyester isn't the right fabric for the era, but, the last week of the play is full on - everyday from Sunday (2 rehearsals) through to the Saturday, which is last night. I needed something that could be washed and dried easily, and as non-iron as possible - ergo a "lovely" polyester. <br />
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If I were making it for me to wear everyday, I would have done a whole host of fitting changes - FBAs, waist adjustments etc etc, but being I was so short on time, I just made it to my bust size and hoped for the best.<br />
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It has an interesting side front seam and by interesting, I mean a little tricky. The curved seam of the skirt is an opposite curve to the bodice when sewing together and, according to the instructions, requires pivoting the needle on a set point before continuing the seam. Three attempts later, I abandoned those instructions, sewed to the point, cut off the threads, re pinned the next part and then started the seam again. But other than that, it sewed together really well. I was going to leave it plain but on stage it was too dark and plain, so I sewed some white bias binding over the seams and around the collar, and actually, it really lifted it.<br />
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All-in-all, it turned out not too bad. It was a tad big in places, but not so big it looked ridiculous. I got seamed tights and authentic styled shoes, did my hair and make-up authentically and you know what? I crushed it, to coin a phrase. I had quite few of the older ladies say how their mother had worn a similar dress or their hair the same way. I have to admit that a glance in the mirror saw my grandmother looking back at me!<br />
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<br />Melissahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00514543669729453075noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3137390802143626836.post-48240538500058286112017-02-05T06:43:00.000-08:002017-02-06T06:39:00.546-08:00A Mourning and a New Look<div style="text-align: justify;">
Well Happy New Year to you all (can I still get away with that.........well, my blog, my rules, so I guess so :-D )</div>
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My planned forays into sewing were severely curtailed last year........my beloved Janome MC9000 died. I loved that machine. It was bought with an inheritance from my grandmother and was a good solid machine of many talents, many which did, in truth, remain unexplored. However, she dealt with whatever I threw at her without shudder or skipped stitch.......until last year. I was making a dress for my daughter when she seized up and refused to move. Luckily Miss Frillymingoe has her own little machine (a basic Janome) so I was able to finish the dress. I put Lady Naomi (the Janome!) into the menders and luckily it was just a mechanical fault, and she had obviously been poorly for a while as she was positively purring when she came home. However, a couple of months later I switched her off at night and the next day found her touch screen had gone. All she would do was a straight stitch at 2.2 size. A frantic search from Lovely Sewing Machine Man (really known as <a href="http://www.ronasewingmachines.co.uk/" target="_blank">Rona Sewing Machines</a>) did indeed prove that there were no longer any parts for her, so she has been retired. I did have Miss Frillymingoe' machine, but it is very lightweight and doesn't have all the features I use and need so no sewing. Then unexpectedly, I was gifted 2 machines from 2 different sources - an overlocker (the pedal of mine got lost in transit years ago in a house move) and a singer sewing machine. Joy of Joys! The machine is heavy, so it won't walk across the table when I rev her up and it has the main functions I require as a minimum. This lady is back in business!</div>
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I had a little trip to Stockholm last September for a friend's Big Birthday and had decided to make a jumpsuit for it (before the demise of Lady Naomi) and found <a href="https://jaycotts.co.uk/products/nl6413-misses-jumpsuit-and-dress-in-two-lengths#.WJcqB_mLTIU" target="_blank">New Look 6413</a>. I love multi-option patterns and this is no different - jumpsuit, dress, tunic, and 2 different sleeve options. I had in my stash a browny-purple satin-backed crepe which I had picked up in the remnants box at Rolls and Rems in Edmonton (Note to all: <i>always</i> have a look in remnants; you never know what you will find!) but alas it wasn't enough. However, it was enough to make the dress but then got put on the back burner because of the demise of Lady Naomi.</div>
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I had a bit of spare time over Christmas and decided to start tackling my stash and the New Look 6413 dress was calling me. As it is a baggy style, I decided not to toile it and just cut my size. Now I'm going to own up here. I've been sewing for years......and years.......and years so you would think that my cutting out would be beyond reproach, wouldn't you? I have no idea what happened, but I had 1 half sleeve that was longer than the others, and worse, the front facings ended up different lengths. I have no idea what happened whether the underneath moved, it wasn't smoothed out properly or it stretched before I stay stitched it (the facing) but there it is - errors galore. Mind, it meant my friend who is reasonably new to sewing felt mightily gladdened that it wasn't just rookies that end up with daft mistakes.</div>
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The pattern calls for an invisible zip, but I decided to funk it up a bit and make it an exposed zip, not that the dress needs a zip at all. Then came the problem with the facing; one side fitted perfectly well but the other was short and did not reach where it needed to along the centre front. Whilst wondering what to do, I remembered the wise words of my tutor from years ago advising to make a design feature of any mistakes so I decided to bind the facing edges in a funky cotton bias binding; a secret pop of colour!</div>
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Not my finest work, but it serves a purpose and only I (ok, <i>we</i>) know about it!</div>
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The waistline is elasticated (I don't normally do elasticated) and I really wasn't sure about the dress when I tried it on to do the elastic; it felt too baggy and shapeless but as I needed it for a night out, I just decided to go with it. Having finished it and worn it, I have to say that I love it! It's very comfortable to wear, not at all baggy or shapeless, with some cute side pockets (I love a pocket or two!) and feels quite chic - effortless chic, that's me! There are a few niggles, eg the front neckline could perhaps do with a smidge taking out of it and I'm not entirely happy with the elasticated waistline; it feels bulky but I guess these are things that only I notice in my full-on critical being! But I will definitely wear it again and I will make it again, in the jumpsuit version. It's very easy to make....so long as you don't make silly mistakes!!</div>
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Scuse the semi-ferocious face and walking pose. I was heading towards Miss Frillymingoe to sort out, I mean help her in taking the photo......and this was the best of bad (and rushed) bunch, just as I was heading out to meet the girls!</div>
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<br />Melissahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00514543669729453075noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3137390802143626836.post-43623965135546443712016-08-13T09:39:00.002-07:002016-08-13T10:02:00.779-07:00The Pretty Woman Kimono (aka The Slippery Sucker!)<div style="text-align: justify;">
Goodness me, I can't believe it is 2 years since I last posted. I won't bore you with the details, but life got in the way BIG time, but now I am on an even keel and and am determined to sew more (actually, I have been sewing, just not blogging it, maybe I will showcase those at some point!)......and tell you more :-D</div>
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I was having a coffee with my mother-in-law on Thursday and she showed me a lovely dress she'd bought for a lunch at her golf club. It is a sleeveless shift dress in cream with a black and red pattern. She was bemoaning the fact that she had been unable to find any lightweight jacket and had really wanted a silky kimono style one. A light-bulb moment occurred........I decided to make one for her. I can and do cut my own patterns, but I was too short on time and brain cells to be be bothered with trying to work out what I needed so I went on a tinterweb hunt and found a <a href="http://sewcaroline.com/2014/08/kimono-jacket-free-pattern-tutorial.html" target="_blank">freebie pattern from Sew Caroline</a> and then went on a fabric hunt (my stash was not forthcoming this time!). I found some black slipper satin which had a lovely drape and was perfect so 2 metres of that and 2 metres of narrow black ribbon for hanging straps (is that what they are called?) came in at under £10.</div>
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I debated about which side to use the fabric, ie make it all in satin (and run the risk it looked like a dressing gown) or use the matt side. In the end I went for the main body in the matt side with satin bands at the end of the sleeves and hemline for bit of dressiness. I figured that this way, it could be worn more casually but still be dressed up when needed. The pattern and instructions printed out well and were easy to to put together and follow. It <i>should</i> be a quick make, but me being me decided to complicate it. The satin (as you will know if you have sewn with it before) frays like made and so I decided to french seam it. The bands were also sewn on the enclose the seams. To do this, I sewed a line of stitching along one edge, 1cm in to be a foldline marker. I then used a narrow seam and sewed the band to the jacket on the opposite side. To finish off, I folded along the stitch line and pinned it in place just over the seam line and then "stitched in the ditch" which held it all in place whilst enclosing the seam. </div>
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<i>Reverse of pinned satin band</i></div>
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<i>Stitching in the ditch</i></div>
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For finishing the front edge, the pattern recommends a rolled edge or a fold over and top stitched finish. I decided to go for a bias binding edge, to enclose the seam but also to give a bit of weight to the edge. I made my own binding Colette's fab tutorial. However, sewing the satin onto satin was fiddly as, in the words of Vivienne in Pretty Woman, it was a "slippery little sucker" but I got there in the end. A quick press and it was delivered.</div>
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It's a great little pattern. My only criticism, as such, is that I would change the work order slightly: sew the shoulder seams, attach the sleeves then sew the side seams (particularly if you are going to french seam them!), but no real biggy. Think I'm going to make one for me and my niece will probably get one as she has just said how much she loves it (unless she steals her grandma's one first lol).</div>
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<i>The Pretty Woman Kimono Jacket</i></div>
Melissahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00514543669729453075noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3137390802143626836.post-43239795897962295752014-09-01T16:40:00.001-07:002014-09-01T16:40:48.944-07:00Toiletries BagLittle Miss FM had a residential trip with her school early in summer and bizarrely her toiletries bag had disappeared, so we had to organise a new one. When she was little I made her some cloth nappies and had collected a veritable stash of fat quarters for the creation of said nappies. She loves butterflies and I had in my stash a funky butterfly fabric so decided it was about time to use it. I bought a cheap shower curtain for the lining. <br />
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To make it, I cut out the shower curtain to the same size as the FQ. I also decided to make a pocket for it so that wet stuff could go one side and dry the other (I just hate my toothbrush rubbing up against soap!!!) so cut out a piece of the curtaining that was half the size of the FQ. Then with wrong sides together (ie right side out) I stitched down one of the long edges,along the bottom and up the other side. I then turned it inside out and repeated the stitching, effectively making a french seam and enclosing and securing the pocket part.<br />
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The next step was to fold down the top to make a channel and then thread through the rope to close it. It was a very quick job and Little Miss was thrilled with her new bag. It is funky and different and plenty big enough to hold all she needs. <br />
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Hope you like it!<br />
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Melissahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00514543669729453075noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3137390802143626836.post-11283687364175301242014-02-22T07:08:00.000-08:002014-02-22T07:13:59.549-08:00Things to think about when sewing <div style="text-align: justify;">
A friend recently asked me to help her make a skirt. Well actually, she asked me to make it, but I persuaded her to have a go. So I was putting together a little pack of instructions and it got me thinking about some things you need to think about when making clothes and I thought I'd put together my little list here for you all.</div>
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Firstly, never, never, never, ever, ever, EVER use your fabric scissors on anything but fabric. Remember the childhood game of Rock, Paper, Scissors, where scissors beat paper? Well they do, but paper is the race equivalent of a tortoise.........over time paper will blunt your scissors (and therefore be triumphant!).......and blunt scissors do not and will not cut fabric. In fact, they will eat your fabric, which isn't quite so bad if it is cheapy toile fabric, but not your lovely, expensive me-made-to-wear fabric. So quite simply, only use your fabric-cutting scissors for fabric (and explain to all family members that if they want to keep their limbs, they keep their hands off your fabric scissors too and you must manage as menacing face as possible when telling them this). I have a cheap pair of scissors for cutting paper (actually, I have several pairs of these as little hands keep stealing my paper scissors) and a couple of pairs of fabric scissors, and for these always buy the best you can afford. </div>
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When it comes to cutting out your pattern pieces, give some thought to seam allowances. Commercial patterns tend to all 1.5cm seam allowance, but that doesn't mean you have to stick to it. If I am inserting a zip, I like to allow at least 2cm seam allowance on the zip seam. It adds a bit more stability to the allowance where the zip is and also means I can finish the seam allowance. Also, think about how you want to finish your seam allowances; are you going to zig-zag stitch it, overlock it, give a "hemmed" finish (ie turn it under and stitch close to the fold line). How you want to finish your seam allowance (and this will depend on your fabric choice) will determine how much seam allowance you need to have.</div>
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Do you want your clothing to be lined? Anything can be lined and if a pattern doesn't include lining, it doesn't mean it can't be or you shouldn't line it. Lining often makes clothes hang better, and also helps prevent wear and tear on seams (as they are hidden away). It also means you don't have to finish off your seam allowances as they will no be subjected to direct wear and tear and so won't fray (if it is a frayable fabric!)</div>
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Don't be afraid to change things in a pattern. You may love a particular style of dress, for example, but the neckline may not suit you. Just change it to one you do like (obviously, if you do this, you will need to change the shape of any facing, but it's no big deal).</div>
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And lastly, always toile a pattern (test it out on cheap fabric) first to check the fit. You really don't want to go straight into cutting your precious fabric only to find that it doesn't quite fit (and that one is learnt from bitter experience!)</div>
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What things do you give thought to when you are sewing?</div>
Melissahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00514543669729453075noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3137390802143626836.post-88271312632087055592014-01-25T04:07:00.000-08:002014-01-25T04:48:18.051-08:00Satin Top for Miss FM and some lessons learnt<div style="text-align: justify;">
Miss FM was recently invited to the batmizvah of her best friend's sister (ya with me so far?). Now,the dress code for this was "posh frock" which sent Miss FM (and not to mention me) into a tail spin. Why? Well, Miss FM is very sporty, not particularly girly and loves her trainers and leggings. She owns only 1 dress, which she asked for and then has subsequently refused to wear. She refused to look at dresses and shoes whilst I sat in a corner wailing and gnashing my teeth. We then went fabric shopping and found some (as I thought at the time) pale blue satin and an A-line dress pattern which I could adapt to make a 60's style shift dress and which I thought would suit her petite frame, as well as being on trend. Sorted! However, unbeknownst to me Mr FM had suggested DM style boots and tutu skirt which Little Miss was very taken with. So boots (some very lush patent white ones were found) and a navy blue tutu skirt were found. So instead of being Audrey Hepburnesque, she was insistent on funky goth! I then realised that my pattern was the wrong style to make into a top and searched around and came across <a href="http://www.burdastyle.co.uk/digital-patterns/kids/a-line-dress-09-2012-151" target="_blank">Burdastyle 09/2012 #150</a> which I could easily (did you hear the snigger there?) adapt to a top.</div>
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Now Miss FM is 10 next month, but is very slight in frame. This pattern didn't go up to her age, (think it goes up to an age 6) but her measurements weren't that far out. I did the dreaded tracing of the pattern and set about making a toile. I decided to add the extra width at CF and CB and thought that I would have to drop the armhole. In my panic (this was on Friday night and the party was on Sunday and Saturday was fully of sporting fixtures) I couldn't remember how to adjust the sleeve to get the right length but an emergency call-out to the lovely TSF (www.thesewingforum.co.uk) ladies sorted that. Toiled the bodice and found I had to take out all the excess I'd put in and so decided to do the sleeve as per the original pattern too. Little Miss tried it on, and success! It fitted no alterations needed!!! However overnight, I was awoken with a nagging feeling. When I did my pattern cutting course, my tutor always said that only 1 sleeve need to be toiled if your body was symmetrical, which I had done. However in the break of dawn, I was having my doubts. I did the other sleeve and it was too small - not enough width and too high under the arms.</div>
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As the top fitted her perfectly around the neck, I decided to add the extra width in the shoulders by slashing and spreading the pattern. I cut up the bodice from hem to shoulder and added 2cm. Make sure you have a reference point, eg a waistline so that when you move the pattern piece out, it is kept at the same level to keep the proportions correct. Just redraw the shoulder line from point to point.</div>
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To make the sleeve adjustment, I had draw in the Crown Line (or bicep line as it was told to me). This is the point where the sleeve head meets the sleeve edge. See below.</div>
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Again, I did the "slash and spread" method. I had lowered the armhole by 2cm, which meant that I to increase the height above the crown line by 2cm. She also wanted the sleeves wider so I added 1 cm to each side of the sleeve and redrew the sleeve head to match. If you widen the sleeves, remember to add the same amount on the side seams of the bodice.</div>
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I decided against doing a facing and just lined the top (the satin was shredded on a cut edge as soon as the scissors were waved in the air!) as that was the best way of protecting the armhole edges (my overlocker foot and power pedal has been missing since we moved, 10 years ago, never got round to replacing it and my machine really doesn't like doing zig-zag stitch) and I put in a concealed zip. The top was very baggy which Little Miss was happy with but wasn't right with the skirt so I pinched out some darts in the back, leaving some bagginess in the front as a compromise. And here it is: </div>
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It's a bit frumpy on, in my opinion but it was what Little Miss specified and who am I to argue with someone's burgeoning style. She was happy and a happily dressed person is a confident one!</div>
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Oh and the lessons learned? 1) Don't start a project late at night, especially if you will need to do (major) alterations, 2) Your tutor isn't always right and 3) don't let your other half get involved in wardrobe planning!</div>
Melissahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00514543669729453075noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3137390802143626836.post-61422744304737954882014-01-12T07:20:00.000-08:002014-01-12T07:20:29.960-08:00New Year, New AimsWell, apologies for the belated wishes, but Happy New Year to you all. I hope you all enjoyed your festivities. Ours were relaxed and fairly quiet, which was welcome following the mayhem that was work.<br />
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Well it is a new year and it is time for (and I hesitate in saying the word) resolutions. I used to set the ones that I guess most of us do.....get fit, lose weight, but I never did so I stopped making them. However this year, I am setting myself aims. I need quite a few things to change and my aim is make those changes.<br />
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In that vein, I have sewing aims too. I failed miserably last year on what I wanted to do sewing-wise, so new year=new start. I am still struggling with my wardrobe, but I have started the <a href="http://40plusstyle.com/new-year-style-challenge-contest/" target="_blank">40+ New Year Style Challenge</a> and it is proving to be an interesting journey. As I have commented previously, I love my jeans and indeed wear them most of the time. I don't need a fancy wardrobe as I work from home and have a family, so jeans suit my lifestyle. I would like to smarten up a bit though and just get out of my jeans occasionally. But what is interesting is that I have learned that my style is Natural Elegance, so I have decided that rather denigrate my love of jeans, embrace them, they are what I am. I also have a fear of pattern (one of our tasks was to put together outfits with at least 2 patterns in, it brought me out in hives, I tell you!), but actually, it is a really fab way of livening up an outfit, and I have also found out that I tend to favour a monochrome colour style, and tend to wear shades of one colour. So I have a few things to work on, such as introducing more pattern and colour into my wardrobe.<br />
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I do still want to smarten up my wardrobe, so my aim is to make my skirt block, and also my trouser block. My summer wardrobe is lacking in trousers and my winter wardrobe is lacking in skirts (well, jeans to count as trousers, don't they?). I like clothes that can be multi-purpose, ie they can be dressed up and dressed down (which is why jeans are so a staple in my wardrobe), so I need to make some trousers that can be used for smart casual for work, but can then be used when I go out on the town with my girls. I'm also looking make a few tops that fit that bill too. I am also lacking in a couple of fancy outfits. Last year, I had to miss out on the offer of last minute tickets to a ball as Cinders here had not a thing to wear. I don't want to miss out again! (I am a sucker for a posh frock and champagne do!). However rather than do it all hap-hazardly, I need to work on building a whole wardrobe and not just bits and pieces and hope they all go together. <a href="http://www.coletterie.com/" target="_blank">Coletterie</a> are about to run their own style challenge: <a href="http://www.coletterie.com/wardrobe-architect/the-wardrobe-architect" target="_blank">The Wardrobe Architect</a> so I shall be taking part in that. Come back and see my progress.<br />
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I also want to practice certain techniques, rolled hems being one of them. I can tend to do them by hand, but sometimes for speed, a machine-rolled hem is the only way to go and mine aren't great. I want to learn to make those wavy, fishing line hems too. I would also like learn to make corsets.<br />
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So quite a few aims there, which will take up a good part of the year, so I'd better aim at finding time to do them!! So what resolutions, I mean aims have you decided on for 2014?Melissahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00514543669729453075noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3137390802143626836.post-15094207430736621652013-12-28T13:10:00.002-08:002013-12-28T13:11:58.485-08:00Baby Doll Pram SetWe, hubby and I, both come from largish families and at Christmas time, we have a family rule that we spend a set amount on each little branch to be spent however we deem. It makes for interesting buying, sometimes with the parents missing out, or at best getting a token gift, whilst the majority of it goes on the children. I like to try and make things; it makes the money go further and makes for more interesting and personal gifts, time allowing as ever. Alas this year, time did not really allow for it and I only got around to making one. My littlest niece (the disgusted recipient of a clothing present), Little Miss H, was given a wooden pram for Christmas last year. It was pretty enough, being the typical pink of so many little girls' things, but just not comfy enough for a baby doll, no mattress and no covers. I promised then to make her something but just never got round to it. So I decided to make it for her Christmas present whilst hoping it would be better received!<br />
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I'd made a quilt a few years ago for my daughter. I'd found this gorgeous piggie fairy fabric when she was tiny and held onto it with the intention of making a quilt for her. In fact I had it so long, I couldn't even remember what it was called nor who made it!!!! It (the quilt) was in gorgeously girlie pink and purples.........just right for a little pram set and so I raided my stash. It took me just as long to decide which fabrics I was going to use as it did to stitch it. I settled on a very basic square pattern, with stitch in the ditch quilting. I cut up a duvet from when my wee lass was a baby and used that for the mattress, giving it a plain pink cover and made a pillow to match, with a stripe of fabric down one short side to match the binding on the quilt. <br />
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I am pleased to report that Little Miss H was far more impressed with this gift, exclaiming "Cushion!" when she saw the mattress and cuddling it tightly! She then spent the evening tucking her baby snuggly into her pram. Success this time!<br />
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<br />Melissahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00514543669729453075noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3137390802143626836.post-42411824316861225972013-12-22T12:39:00.001-08:002013-12-22T12:39:52.115-08:00The Skadi DressI tend to flick between knitting and sewing, although I do sew more than I knit. I think I prefer the more immediacy of sewing. I say immediacy with a reasonable amount of tongue in cheek! I am a member of Ravelry and I have to say, I love that site. I've always liked clothes that are not found on the high street, which is one of the reasons I started sewing and the same goes for knitting. Ravelry is fabulous as it is a huge resource of patterns, mostly from independent designers. One of the patterns I found was the gorgeous <a href="http://www.petitepurls.com/winter10/winter2010_p_skadi.html" target="_blank">Skadi dress by Erica Neitzke</a> It has a lovely vintage feel to it, so right for nowadays. It is knitted in the round and knits up like a dream (and I am new to knitting in the round). My daughter is too old for this (not to mention has developed a severe allergy to dresses) but luckily, we are girl heavy in our family, so my youngest niece was the recipient of this in time for her second birthday. Alas she was distinctly unimpressed, being that her present was clothing, but her mummy loved it! Hope you do too!<div>
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Melissahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00514543669729453075noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3137390802143626836.post-57877617413447849812013-11-21T01:26:00.000-08:002013-11-21T01:26:02.679-08:00Well Hello! Long time, no see!Well, 3 posts do not a blog make (which I have shamelessy pinched from the blog of a fellow forumite!)! I have an excuse, a very good excuse. Well it is the only excuse I have, so it will have to do. Before starting this blog, I had a really nasty, severe bout of sciatica. For those of you that haven't had it, let me put it this way....I gave birth to all 3 of my children without pain relief, and I would do it again, in fact all 3 at the same time, rather than have sciatica. I had an episode last year and a mini-cocktail of drugs and some time sorted it. This time, I ended up in A&E, was given a shed-load of drugs, both oral and injection, none of which worked and sent on my merry-way with a bag positively rattling with a cocktail of drugs. I tried to settle down to sewing, but it was just too much. After months of physiotherapy, I am reasonably back to normal, and how I am now is likely to be my normal, which isn't what my normal used to be, but hey ho!<br />
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I did, during that time, make a gown for someone (more of that later), but a recent girl's night and an empty wardrobe tempted me into trying to sew again. Well you know what they say about necessity being the mother of invention - it was time to get inventing. I say inventing, I raided my Burda Style magazines. I have been collecting these magazines for years and then I fell out of love with them; their patterns were dull, dull, dull. However they turned a corner and our romance was rekindled. I found an asymetrical top in the July 2011 edition (pattern 113) and raided my stash, finding a silk satin-backed crepe (or crepe-backed satin) and a silk chiffon. I decided to wing it and not make a toile, figuring that as it isn't fitted, I would probably get away with it. Once I'd got over tracing off the pattern (I have never forgiven Burda for skimping on their pattern pages), it was an absolute dream to put together, although cutting the chiffon sleeves proved to be somewhat of a challenge. I thought I'd pinned it to within an inch of its life.....but it moved so that in the middle there was barely any sleeve and actually it was not even discernably a sleeve!<br />
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Take 2:<br />
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I pinned it diagonally around the seam allowance. It was better but I still wasn't convinced.<br />
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Take 3:<br />
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I had some lightweight iron on interfacing so I pinned to chiffon to the rough side thinking that it would be gripped by the glue. It was a bugger to cut it that way as it was pinned to the interfacing and actually, I couldn't tell the difference between attempt 2 or 3!!!! I did a french seam for the side seams and just zig-zagged the trimmed edges for the neck and sleeves, which was a bit of a mistake as my beloved Janome really doesn't like zig-zag finishing, but it was ok, not great, but ok (and who else will get to see the insides when I'm wearing it?!). In the pattern, the hemline is supposed to be elasticated but I skipped that as it probably isn't wide enough to gather and it could do with being a bit longer it I were to gather it.</div>
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The good news is I finished the top in time and wore it out. I'm not sure about the unfinished chiffon edges. It is already fraying, and I do like neat edges. <br />
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I think next time I make it (and there will be a next time) I will bind the seam allowances of the neck and sleeve edges, just for a neater finish, but I love it and it is a great wardrobe basic. It is a great pattern to work with and could be quite versatile. I can see it made in a jersey for a cute, casual summer top, with maybe a deeper neck band, or in a cotton with bias bound edges....the options are limitless. </div>
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Melissahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00514543669729453075noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3137390802143626836.post-48797195425777880372013-06-13T10:13:00.000-07:002013-06-13T10:13:01.119-07:00Call the Fashion Police!I am a woman on a mission. I have committed my cardinal sin and my mission is to rectify this. Let me explain. Years ago when my friend had her first baby, her dress sense completely changed. She went from a mini skirt loving gal (and at 6ft tall, there was wasn't much skirt against those lovely giraffe-like legs) to a jeans and polo shirt clad mamma. She of course was quite happy, and that<i> is</i> the main thing, but I swore I would NEVER become the jeans and t-shirt mum.<br />
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Roll forward to today, and what do I wear? Yes, you've guessed it jeans and t-shirts. Now I really don't blame the children for this change in my style (although I do hold them responsible for the loss of my waist), nope. It all started when I began working from home. Our house is old and cold, (especially as my office is my loft!) and I was rushing around doing the school run, dropping off work, collecting work, ferrying children to their activities, etc. And it was just easier to throw on my jeans. But I am sick, so so sick of wearing my uniform of jeans and T-shirts. So my mission is to smarten my wardrobe. The only thing is I've kind of lost sight of what suits me.<br />
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So I made a <a href="http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/30351/how-to-make-a-personal-croquis" target="_blank">croquis</a> as advised Threads (and didn't like what I saw, but hey ho) but still didn't really know what to do. I then stumbled across the blog <a href="http://40plusstyle.com/">40plusstyle.com</a> . Ignore the fact that it is aimed at the over 40's as there are some great style tips and hints. It led me to a calculator which has determined that I am a rectangle or banana (?!) and that I have long legs/short torso. (Actually, I have long thighs, if it weren't for them I would be more balanced and 2 inches shorter). I then bought Gok's book "How to work your wardrobe" (well at £3.99 in a discount book store it seemed rude not to!). And he has some good pointers for building a wardrobe.<br />
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So armed with this info, my mission is to update my wardrobe and get me out of my jeans. I have gaps in my wardrobe, considerable gaps actually (did I say that I only wear jeans and t-shirts?!) That being said, I really need to get in touch with my friend to get my bodice block toile checked for fit and I will be off. <br />
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I just need to find all the fabric I have ideas for. Now that is a different story!Melissahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00514543669729453075noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3137390802143626836.post-42679545024858256902013-06-02T16:15:00.000-07:002013-06-02T16:15:39.472-07:00My Bodice BlockI did the City & Guilds in Pattern Cutting quite a few years ago. Since doing it, I've had a baby (who is now 9 :-O ), lost a shed load of weight (related to food allergies of said baby) and put most of it back on, you know the cycle! So my blocks don't really work, although I have to admit that I've not really used them since I've had them, life has kind of got in the way. (I have used my pattern cutting though so it wasn't all in vain!) I have a massive stash of fabric, all earmarked for projects but need my blocks to make them so have got on with making new ones.<br />
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The first time round, I did my blocks via the flat pattern cutting version, using the <a href="http://books.google.co.uk/books/about/Flat_pattern_cutting_and_modelling_for_f.html?id=xhFOULwhBNwC&redir_esc=y" target="_blank">Helen Stanley</a> book. This way is very mathematics-based and necessitates you having measured yourself accurately at various body points. However, this time round my bodice block was done using the modelling style: no maths involved, you just need to be able to stand still for a while, whilst someone else fits fabric to your body to create a basic shell. Both require you making a toile of your blocks to check the fit (which means you need to have someone available to help with fitting).<br />
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Despite the speed and ease with which the modelling was done (the speed probably due to my fitter knowing what she was doing, it does help!), I prefer the flat pattern cutting version. Now I have never really thought of myself being much of a mathematician. Don't get me wrong, I got a good grade at "O" level (yes I am a relic of the old education system, soon to be old-old education system if Mr Gove has his way) but that was with extra tuition. Maths and I had an uneasy relationship; I never really got it, nor the point of it. However the older I get, I realise that I'm good at the Maths I know and remember (most of it has been forgotten) and I enjoy it. I am obviously way more mathematical than I ever cared to admit (and yes, I am now admitting it: My name is Melissa and I DO like Maths). I like this way of creating blocks; I like the process, the accuracy and the neatness of the flat pattern cutting version.<br />
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So, whilst I am waiting for my toiled modelled block to be tweaked, I find myself wondering if you have a block, which method you used or prefer and why?<br />
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<br />Melissahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00514543669729453075noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3137390802143626836.post-39647514937046519402013-06-02T05:41:00.001-07:002013-06-02T16:10:54.623-07:00Hello I've been following various blogs for quite some time now and recently stumbled across Clare's blog <a href="http://sewdixielou.blogspot.co.uk/">Sew Dixie Lou</a>. She asked me if I had a blog to follow and I hung my head in shame. I've been contemplating about doing a blog for years (and procrastinating all the time: would I have time, what would I write, would I be interesting enough, witty enough etc, etc) and decided to give it a go. So here I am, and thanks for the push Clare! Oh and please excuse the look; I'm a new blogger and decided to seize the day. I am hoping/intending for it to look better, once I know how!<br />
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